Monday, January 31, 2011

New Years Day Surf!

After waking up a little on the late side, as is understandable on New Years day, Jakko, Matt, Dillion and myself piled in to Matt's surf-mobile and headed for Terrace Bay. Swell was forcasted at 14 feet and from the highway on the way into town we could see that it was probably right!

We decided to try the surf spot called Pump House as the beach faced around 90 degrees to the swell direction. This forced the waves to wrap into the bay, cleaning them up and knocking them down in size (Jakko originally wanted to surf that right way in the background of the picture but it was out of my ability level and I like living). It also gave us a nice barrier of trees to dampen the 40km/h winds.

Jakko paddle out first follwed by me. Once out, we discovered a crazy longshore current carrying us down the bay to where bigger and more inconsistant sets were coming in. But after catching a wave in each and a long walk down the beach I found a sweet little riptide. The rip not only made getting out a breeze, but if you stayed to surfers left of it there was no other currents, so staying in place was easy. After that we ended up surfing this sick right (its out of from to the right of the picture) for a few hours before bigger and bigger waves snuck in. This culminated in a monster set taking all four of us out at once as we got caught inside. It was hardest i've been owned in awhile, including numerous slams off the bottom and just enough time to catch one breath before the second wave pretty much took me the rest of the way to shore! We all looked at each other and decided that was a wrap. Which was a good thing as the 2.5 hour drive took about 5 as a winter storm had just starting pushing it's way into the area.

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